Where should a garden path go?
The best line for a path is usually the one people already walk. Worn tracks in a lawn, trampled planting beside the pool or a short cut across a bed show where a paved pathway is wanted, and a path that ignores them tends to be bypassed.
Before setting out, we walk the garden with you and list the journeys it has to serve: from the parking space to the front door, from the kitchen to the bins, from the terrace to the pool, from the gate to a garden shed. Some are daily and need width; others are occasional and can be narrower or more informal. Curves look relaxed but should be gentle enough to walk without cutting corners; straight paths suit formal gardens and narrow plots along a boundary wall.
Our guide on designing paths and edges goes deeper into widths, curves and junctions. It also explains why a path that meets a terrace or pool surround should be planned at the same time, so that levels and materials join without a step or an awkward strip of cuts.
Which materials can a garden path be made from?
Concrete block pavers, multi-size paving systems, clay or brick-style pavers, slabs and natural stone all make good garden paths. The choice depends on the look of the garden, the width and shape of the path and what will travel on it.
| Material | Character | Good to know |
|---|---|---|
| Rectangular concrete pavers | Neat, versatile | Easy to curve with cuts; simple to repair |
| Multi-size block systems | Informal, varied | Several sizes from one range give a random-looking finish |
| Garden brick path (clay pavers) | Warm, traditional | Colour runs through the unit; laid like concrete pavers |
| Slabs | Clean, modern | Wide units suit straight paths better than tight curves |
| Crazy-paving stone | Rustic, hand-made look | Suits informal routes; slower to lay |
Owners sometimes ask about a pattern-imprinted concrete path, and we pour those too. It is a poured, stamped slab rather than paving, and it behaves differently: it is continuous, so ground movement or a root shows up as a crack rather than a lifted block. Existing stamped paths in good condition can be refreshed rather than replaced; the restoration site covers stamped concrete restoration. For clay pavers in more detail, see clay pavers on our materials site.
How deep does the base of a garden path need to be?
The base depends on what uses the path and on the ground underneath. A route that only carries people needs less than one that takes wheelbarrows, a garden mower or the occasional small vehicle, and soft or clay ground needs more than firm, well-drained soil.
Rather than quote a single depth, we dig until we reach firm ground, remove topsoil and roots, and build a compacted granular sub-base to suit the use. Paths for wheelbarrows and garden machinery get a thicker, better-compacted layer and firmer edges than paths for foot traffic only. Where a path crosses a trench, for example over an irrigation line or a cable, the trench backfill is compacted in layers so that it does not sink later. The exact thickness for each case is decided on site after seeing the ground.
How is a garden path laid, step by step?
A path is set out with pegs and string or spray paint, dug out, built up in compacted layers, edged and then paved. The sequence is the same as for a terrace, but the narrow shape means edges and cuts take a larger share of the work.
- Set out the line and width, and agree any curves on the ground with you before digging.
- Excavate topsoil and roots, keeping clear of tree trunks and marking any pipes or cables found.
- Lay and compact the sub-base, shaping a slight cross-fall towards the planting.
- Fix the edging on both sides, or on the open side where a wall forms the other edge.
- Screed the bedding layer and lay the pavers, slabs or stone to pattern.
- Cut the edge pieces, fill and brush the joints, compact where the material allows, and clean down.
With natural stone crazy paving the order is the same, but each piece is selected and trimmed to fit its neighbours, which is visibly slower. Once finished, a path needs little more than sweeping and an occasional top-up of joint sand; our guide to looking after outdoor paving explains what to use and what to avoid when cleaning.
Why do path edges matter so much?
Without a firm edge, the pavers at the side of a path slowly creep outwards, the joints open and the surface starts to dip. Edging is what keeps a path in shape over the years, especially on curves and where it borders soft planting.
- Concrete kerbs or edging units: the most robust choice beside lawns and gravel
- A haunch of concrete behind the outer pavers: hidden from view, suits paths bordered by planting
- Walls and steps: an existing retaining wall or step can serve as the edge on one side
- Metal or timber edging: lighter, suited to gravel paths or informal routes with little load
A narrow path along a retaining wall or boundary fence uses the wall as one edge and needs a firm edge only on the open side. On our materials site, kerbs and edging explains the different units. Where a path climbs, short flights of outdoor steps are usually better than a steep ramp.
What is the cheapest garden path material?
Gravel held by edging is usually the least expensive path to build, followed by standard concrete pavers; natural stone and cut-heavy patterns cost more. The cheapest option to build is not always the cheapest over time, since gravel spreads and needs topping up.
The real cost driver on many paths is shape and access rather than the material. A long straight path with an easy route for deliveries costs less per metre than a short winding one at the back of a sloping garden reached by steps. The network's price site has published rates per m² and a calculator, and the article garden paths: which surface for which use compares the options by how a path is used.
Frequently asked questions
How wide should a garden path be?
It depends on who uses it. A path for one person can be narrower than a main route where two people walk side by side or where bins and wheelbarrows pass. We look at the use and the space available rather than applying one width, and allow for planting that will spread over the edges.
Can you build a curved garden path in pavers?
Yes. Small rectangular or multi-size pavers follow curves well, with cuts along the edges. Larger slabs are better suited to straight paths. The tighter the curve, the more cutting is needed, which affects the time and the look of the edge.
Do garden paths need drainage?
Most garden paths simply fall slightly across their width so water runs into the planting beside them. Paths that run between walls or along the foot of a slope may need a channel or a gully, because water from higher ground collects on them during heavy rain.
What is a garden brick path made of today?
Most are laid with clay pavers, which look like brick but are made for paving, or with concrete pavers in brick colours. Old building bricks are generally not suitable underfoot outdoors because they can absorb water and break up. We advise on the right paving unit for the look you want.
Can a path be laid next to a retaining wall?
Yes, and the wall often serves as one edge. We check that the wall foundation is not undermined by the excavation and that water from the path does not run along the base of the wall. The open side gets a firm edge of its own.
Will weeds grow between the pavers?
Some weeds will root in the joints over time, mostly from wind-blown seed in the sand. Well-filled, compacted joints and occasional brushing keep them down. A weed membrane under the sub-base mainly stops roots coming up from below; it does not prevent seeds settling on top.
Can you remove an old concrete path and replace it?
Yes. We break out the concrete, take away the rubble, check the ground underneath and build a new base before laying the new path. The old line can be kept or changed. If the concrete is sound and only worn, restoring it may be a cheaper alternative worth considering.
Can a garden path take a small vehicle such as a ride-on mower?
Yes, if it is planned for it. A path that carries a ride-on mower, a quad or a small delivery vehicle needs a thicker, better-compacted base, robust edges and a suitable paver thickness. Tell us at the start what will use the path so the specification fits.
Can paths be lit or have cables underneath?
Yes. Garden lighting cables should run in ducts under or beside the path before the base is built. That way a fault can be reached without lifting the paving. We coordinate the order of work with your electrician so ducts are in place before we pave.
Should a garden path match the terrace or pool surround?
Using the same or a related material ties the garden together. Many owners use the main terrace paver on the principal routes and a more informal material, such as stone or gravel, on secondary paths. Planning both at once avoids awkward junctions between surfaces.